Ajaysekher.net

Indian Pitta of Mangalavanam

Ajay — Sat, 06 Mar 2010 12:18:19 +0000

A Unique Ecosystem: Mangroves of Mangalavanam

Saturday, 6 March 2010: After a lot of things done on a hot summer day in and around the city I reached the green and cool Mangroves of Mangalavanam for the first time this year as the sun was dipping down into the Arabian sea, at the mouth of the harbour in Kochi. Seeing the high tide I was a bit disappointed that I missed the waders and shore birds. I climbed up the wooden watchtower and waited a while in vain. The always welcoming forest guards Raju and Jayan told me that the Night Herons who were here for the past many years had vanished! Plenty of giant bats are now colonizing the rain trees behind the forest station. Raju also informed me that he is regularly watching a Pitta in the thickets at dusk.

Atop the Green Mangroves: A view from Watchtower

I decided to wait for the darkness to fall and meet the rare winter visitor, Kaavi (Thuthu Chuvapan Kaavi, literally means Red vented Kavi in Malayalam) to appear. It is also called the Six ‘O clock Bird as it appears after sunset. During the silent meandering through the walkways under the mangroves I was lucky to spot a forest wagtail, an orange headed thrush, a Paradise Flycatcher (Male, Rufus morph) and a few water hens.

Raju also told me that he has also sighted a Great Tit in the sanctuary recently and White Ibises, Stilts and Shanks are also regularly visiting the mud banks during low tide. I remember reporting about Stilts and Shanks last year at the same time. At around 6.20 pm we heard a distinct resonant call and Jayan helped me to sight the bird sitting on a low twig.

It was a beautiful Indian Pitta with its long white eye brow, green upper and light brown underparts; of course with a reddish vent! I managed to take a few snaps in the dark. I was really excited to see the bird that close and take the image. After admiring the cute little bird for a while we retreated silently without disturbing it.

Indian Pitta in Mangalavanam, locally called 'Kaavi'

The Kerala Forest Department and the dedicated Staff here must be appreciated for their good work of conservation in the midst of a booming city like Kochi. Recently there was an outbreak of wildfire near the old railway compound. Now there is a talk about a Medical College near the sanctuary. The threats and challenges for conservation are on the increase day by day and the brilliant bio diversity of Mangalavanam prompts us for protecting it, for all of us and for posterity.

Profanations: Art Show with a Difference

Ajay — Sat, 27 Feb 2010 09:43:57 +0000

My artist friends R Venu, Hochimin, Sivadasan, Vinu VV and Anil K N have materialized a unique group exhibition of paintings at Darbar Hall Art Centre, Kochi from 22 to 28 February 2010. The show is titled “Profanations” and is curated and organized by Zen Studio Gallery, Eramalloor, Alapuzha.

"The Attendant" by Hochimin. Oil on canvas

The show brings together the recent works of these young and dynamic artists of Kerala that challenge visual culture and politics in plural ways. The works also invoke some of the contemporary issues, visual idioms and thematic in current Kerala and the world. They address questions of representation, hegemony and resistance in their own ways.

An Intricate Water Colour Painting By R Venu

The works of Venu explore the labyrinthine intricacies of power and and its manifestations through an intimate and elaborate visualization of details. He makes visible the invisible micro operations of power and docility. Sites of power and resistance are inscribed minutely and intricately on his vast canvases in a meditative and meandering manner. His visual depiction is multi-layered and interwoven.

Hochimin explores the alarming contours and contagious terrains of hegemony and cultural subordination in the Indian and Kerala context with special visual significations aimed at the Indian fascism and Brahmanism in purticular. The geographical and topographical ethereal landscapes and bizarre figures enact a vital theatre of life, expression and counter action. His whole body of work visually addresses and interogates the cultural puzzles and riddles of the caste society with amazing and surreal imagery and awesome textures.

Sivadasan explores the magical and tragical play of colours and simple images drawn from everyday life in a refreshing but complex and illuminating manner. His enquiry into the visual realm is ingenuous and resonant. Some of his works are deceptively simple and ironically cathartic.

A Painting in Three parts by Anil K N

Vinu’s almost life size self portraits in water colour are playful and pardoxical. They are also political statements and serious critiques of contemporary cultural politics in Kerala. They articulate the muted trajectory of subaltern voice and agency in our society.

Anil also explores the untouched branches and spaces of exclusion and marginalization in Kerala cultural context. Through the representation of simple tree branches and twigs he visually renders an allegory of our current political struggles of excluded people for land and human rights. His exemplary command over the acrylic medium is enchanting and visually soothing.

The splendid catalog brought out by Zen team and the art critics Sudheeran, Benoy and Sunil also stands apart as an expression of creativity and critical consciousness. The collective work of these young people are really meaningful and critically valuable in the field of visual culture and representation in Kerala today. As I was leaving the gallery I was also interested to note a lot of youngsters coming and watching the show at D H Hall.

Venu, Sivadasan, Vinu, Hochimin and Jr. Hochimin before Vinu's Self

For complete images and catalog text visit www.zenstudiogallery.com and also www.zenstudiogallery.blogspot.com

“Rain-Home” A Poem by Bijoy Chandran

Ajay — Sun, 14 Feb 2010 12:31:45 +0000

Home

Alone in the dark.

The sobs of the decayed window;

Yesterday scribbled on a piece of paper.

The guest vanished leaving the foot ware behind

Life too retreated after searching for a while in vain.

We alone remain at the end like rusted old vessels

The struggling love strangles us with creeping in memories.

Though we close the door mutually like this

The bonds of life and beyond call us back again.

It beats in the locked room within the heart

The pants for you, the drums of monsoon.

Translated from Malayalam original “Mazhaveetu” by Ajay Sekher.

Bijoy Chandran is a young poet in Malayalam who has many volumes of poetry to his credit. He also edits the magazine Thorcha from Muvatupuzha. He can be reached at: +91 9947132322.

Searching a Bird in Anamalais: Remapping Pampadumpara

Ajay — Fri, 12 Feb 2010 13:51:17 +0000

Exploring Beyond Iravikulam in a Sole Search

Sholas of Western Ghats

I was part of a unique eco expedition in the high mountains of Rajamala near Munnar during February 4 to 7, 2010. My friend and former colleague Dr Dilip K G of S S University, Kalady invited me for a key inquiry in the shola grass lands north of Rajamala gap beyond Pettimudi. It was a specific search for a single species!

Bio-diversity Hot Spots High up in the Western Ghats

This unique grassland shola and mixed wet evergreen forest are home to various endangered Western Ghats endemic flora and fauna. Our

Nilgiri Tahr in Iravikulam National Park

expedition happened at a critical juncture when the Munnar land issue was turbulent in the media and in the politics of the state.

The expedition was in search of a single species: Nilgiri Laughing Thrush, which is common in the Nilgiri mountains north of Palghat pass. It was organized jointly by Kerala Forest Department and Cochin Natural History Soceity lead by Dr Dilip and Vishnupriyan Kartha.

The Elusive Bird: Nilgiri Laughing Thrush in the Anamalais?

Nilgiri Laughing Thrush, Dodabeta peak, Ooty'o9

In the recently concluded Mankulam Bird Survey 2010, Dr Dilip chanced to see a bird resembling the Nilgiri Laughing Thrush in this purticular location called Pampadumpara, a few miles north west of Rajamala gap and Pettimudi. The exact location of sighting is called Mappatham at an elevation of 1430 meters.

Though Grey-breasted Laughing Thrush and Wayanad L T are found in the Anamalis and Sahyadri mountains south of the Palghat pass, the sighting of the Nilgiri L T is a rare record, yet to be confirmed. The dialogues between Dr Dilip and DFO Induchudan proved successful and the re-survey was materialized.

At home in forest: CNHS team

All Set for the Search: The Team CNHS

I joined the team at Munnar by the afternoon of 4th February, 2010. Apart from Dr Dilip and me Vishnupriyan Kartha, Jinu George, Adv. Jay

Breath taking: A View from Pampadumpara top

and Jijo were part of the team. Forest guard Babu accompanied us through out and forest watchers Indran and

Grassland sholas, Iravikulam National Park

company played our hosts in the forest.

After having lunch in Munnar we started our journey on jeep. At the Iravikulam National Park we took a small break to see a few mountain ungulates, the endangered Nilgiri Tahr. We also saw a few Grey-breasted Laughing Thrushes near the Story of the park. A few Pacific Swallows were also flying around.

Crossing Rajamala Gap, the Jeep Journey to the Edge: Feb. 4, 2010

Then we resumed our journey to Pettimudi beyond the Rajamala gap. The gap is at an elevation of almost 2000 m. stated the altimeter in my Timex Expedition WS4. From there we had a great view of the whole park with pinnacles like Naykoli and Umaya Mala in the backdrop. Anamudi the highest peak in South India at an elevation of around 2600 m. is not visible from here, though it towers nearby.

Crossing the gap we descended down to the Nyamakad and then Pettimudi estates owned by the Tatas. The road to Idamala Kudi, a tribal settlement of the Muduvan tribe, divereged again to the high grasslands from Pettimudi estate junction.

The Long Trek to the Location: Pampadumpara

Turning left from here we reached the border of the Pettimudi estate and began our long trek to Pampadumpara further north west in the mixed evergreen and shola grassland forest. We saw plenty of Pied Bush Chats in the tea gardens. In the forest Scimitar Babblers were plenty with their

Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher, Pampadumpara

distinct calls. We also saw many Grey-headed Canary Flycatchers. Vishnu was busy with his heavy Canon barrels. Above the rocky cliffs we observed a few Black Eagles as well.

Finally when we reached the camp site at Pampadumpara it was getting dark. The tribal forest watchers lead by the chief Indran Annan welcomed us and served us hot black coffee. The temperature was dropping with the sun Though there was an ancient natural rock-cave we opted to sleep outside in the open on the rock overlooking Mankulam valley as the cave was too small to host all of us together.

Sleeping in the Open near the Fire among the Ancient Folks

We spent the night on the rock near the fire at 1520 m. in altitude. Supper was served hot

The Whole team at day-break

near it and we relished the simple meals as lights began to emerge in the valley from the wild darkness further down west in Mankulam and Anakulam. The sounds of the wilderness resonated from all sides in the dark. The sky was an ocean of twinkling stars.

It was both scary and sensational. Our hosts the ancient Muduvan tribesmen had come all the way from Anakulam to set us camp. In the warmth of the fire Indran ”Annan” (the elder in ancient Tamil) narrated the story of his people and the plight of the Adivasis in the Western Ghats today.

Exploers in the jungle, Pampadum para

We also had heated debates on the Munnar land issue. As cold was engulfing everything, we slowly retreated into the safety of our warm sleeping bags. Though the night sky was starry the cold wind creeped into the sleeping bag through the airhole and pinched us with a vengeance too

Black Eagle flying high above Pampadumpara

often.

Day 1. Feb. 5, 2010. Hot Pursuit

We were awakened by the cold in the early morning. Temperature dropped down to a minimum of 10 degree C. After having coffee we began our birding transects. We formed three groups and explored the area in the morning light. I was with Dilip and we scanned the Mappatham ridge. We could see many Scimitar Babblers and Grey-breasted Laughing Thrushes. We also saw Honey Buzzards above . Dilip chased the enigmatic birds for so long in the thick under growths, but was beguiled in the end. At noon we returned to the camp and had our belated brunch!

Indran Annan: Tribal Chief and Tracker

After a light nap our team mates found huge and fresh pug marks of a wild cat just a few meters from our camp in the damp soil. It was a tiger! He or she was around last night and a sudden tremor hit us like lightning! But we were equally excited to see the trace of the big cat!

Nilgiri Flycatcher, Pampadumpara

We repeated the transects in the afternoon and explored the wet evergreen forest patches and the riverine patches near the Pettimudi stream. I quenched my thirst and exhaustion with the cold and sweet water that comes all the way down from Pettimudi and beyond, the waters and rivulets of Anamudi also joins this stream says Annan our learned tracker.

Near the stream at around 1400 m. we heard the calls of mountain pigeons. We suddenly saw a flock of more than ten Mountain Imperial Pigeons flying away from us with their heavy wing beats. Their whitish underbelly and grey tail bar were visible. As we approched the tree a few more Nilgiri Wood Pigeons also flew away from us. We noticed the difference in calls and their appearance as well.

Day 2. Feb. 6, 2010. Still Hopeful:

The second day we changed our strategy and planned to flush the bird out in a joint mission. We reached Mappatham (literally means the terraced land of Sambhar Deer in Muduvan tribal etymology) early morning and hid ourselves in various strategic locations. Our attending staff also tried their best to flush some birds out of the thick undergrowth but they proved to be Grey-breasted ones and Scimitar Babblers, rather than the Nilgiri one.

But we saw a variety of birds in the meanwhile. Emerald Doves, Nilgiri Wood Pigeons, Black and Orange Flycatchers, Grey-headed Canary Flycatchers, Black-lored Tits, Mountain Hawk Eagles, Serpent Eagles and Black Eagles.

Mountain Imperial Pigeon, Mappatham, Pampadum Para

The Mountain Imperial Pigeon came to my hide out near a small stream and allowed me a generous and graceful photo session. It also came close to me up to two meters and drank water from the stream. A Paradise Flycatcher with long white tail streamers were also remarkable here. Butterflies like Colored Sergeant also came to visit me to pose before my Lumix FZ 28 for awhile.

In the afternoon we climbed up the peak of Pampadumpara in an exhausting adventure. We could see the northern stretches of Iravikulam plateau and even Valpara and Malakkapara, lying in the north from there. As evening approched it was raining raptors there. The peak rose well above 1750 m. in altitude. We saw plenty of Black Eagles, Booted Eagles, Common Buzzards and Honey Bussards there. My friends also noticed a falcon diving down after lingering mid air static for a few seconds.

The Retreat: Feb. 7, 2010

The next morning we repeated the transects but in vain. We saw plenty of other birds like the Nilgiri Flycatcher and Black and Orange Flycatchers. But our target bird was still elusive. By ten in the morning we began the return journey to Pettimudi estate through the dense jungle.

Tiger Pug Marks, Centre and Left. Gaur Hoof Mark, Right Bottom

The Trail of the Tiger

On the way we saw several tiger scats and the blood of a deer on pebbles and leaves caught by the tiger. The hunt happened just before our arrival at the spot. Though we could not see the bird that we were looking for we could identify the place as a hot spot of the tiger, a big one

Tiger scat on the trek-path

among the very few remaining in the Anamalais today.

At the edge of the forest we had a refreshing bath in the Pettimudi stream. The beautiful sandy shores and pebbles of the stream captivated us and we ignored the cold to delve deep into the flowing water. Some Blue Bottle and some unknown butterflies were mud puddling in the sandy shores. By the time we finished the bath our jeep arrived and sounded horn.

Trekking Down Rajamala: Grass Birds, Bush Quails and Pipits

At the Rajamala gap we alighted from the vehicle and trekked down to the Story of the park. We could see plenty of Nilgiri Pipits and a few Broad tailed grass birds, an Anamalai endemic. We saw plenty of Nilgiri Flycatchers and Pied Bushchats. At the story we again saw the Grey-breasted Laughing Thrushes having their ridiculing laugh at us! We were fortunate to see the nesting of Pacific Swallows in the building.

Nilgiri Pipit, Rajamala N P

As we drove down to the main road we saw Nilgiri Langurs and a flock of Painted Bush Quails crossing and stopping by the road. A Grey Jungle Cock also crossed our path before we hit the highway to Munnar.

Grey Jungle Cock crossing

Pacific Swallow: Nesting

Portraits of the Artist as a Model

Ajay — Sat, 30 Jan 2010 17:34:37 +0000

Last week some energetic young painters among my students in plus two at GVHSS Rajakumari asked my permission to draw my portraits. I spend some time sitting before them as a model for their artistic practice. They have shown tremendous vigor and gusto in representing my image in an imaginative way adding touches of irony and caricature. Elements of cartooning and creative composition with graffiti are also visible and tangible in their rendering of their English teacher. I am really happy to publish those works here!

Jithin 2010, Ball Pen on Paper, 20*10 cm

Anil Raj 2010, Ball Pen on paper, 25*15

Vishnu M R 2010, Pencil on paper, 20*10

Sijo M Jose 2010, Pencil on Paper, 20*30 cm

I really thank all these young painters and express my gratitude and enthusiasm in their work. They inspire me to draw and paint in a more free and friendly manner than I often do. They teach me to be simple, humane and creative at the same time. I learn from you my young friends!

Kumarakam: The Winged Visitors are Still Here!

Ajay — Sun, 24 Jan 2010 08:24:34 +0000

The Green Haven

Kumarakam paddy fields

Kumarakam, a lagoon like village on the eastern banks of the Vembanad lake in central south Kerala is a traveler’s paradise. This picturesque land in Kuttanad is well connected by road to Kochi and Kottayam. Its green paddy fields, meandering canals and waterways, vast stretches of water lilies, long and fading rows of coconut groves and the blue glittering waters of the backwaters form a perfect refreshing retreat for human tourists as well as migrant birds. Tourists and migrant birds from all over the world flock to this rustic haven in search of fresh air, water and a taste of Kuttanad.

The blues and greens of Kumarakam

The Eco Crisis

I was in Kumarakam on 16 and 17 January 2010 to participate in the annual Vembanad Waterfowl Count organized by Kerala Forest and Wildlife Department and Kottayam Nature Society. This year I was assigned the Thanneermukkam bund to survey. The bund or rather barrage is a cause of a huge environmental catastrophe in Kuttanad for the last few decades. It was designed exclusively for the doubling of paddy yield, but unfortunately it had blocked the natural flow of water into the sea and

Sunrise at the barrage in Thannirmukkam

contaminated the whole region. Now the government has made a decision to open it for a whole year, so that the toxins accumulated could be purged. Let us hope for the best.

Waterfowl Count 2010

Since I was given the barrage area to survey there was little birds apart from a few whiskered terns,egrets, cormorants and Brahmany kites. We could see a pair of white-browed wagtails at the western end of the barrage. The count done in ten locations confirmed a marginal drop in the number of birds in the winter migration season. The survey also brings to notice the extend of pollution that is increasing day by day as a result of irresponsible tourism. The destruction of natural habitat and contamination of water bodies are detrimentally affecting the migrant waterfowl.

Westend Lakeside Home Stay

A place to repose: Lakeside Homstay

But the day before the survey I was lucky to spend my evening at the lake side in a beautiful home stay retreat called Westend Lakeside Home Stay. It is a small but well designed getaway in the traditional wooden architectural style of Kerala at the edge of the backwater from where you have a great view of the Vembanad. Here you can enjoy the sunset from your balcony or the courtyard soothing yourself in the cool gentle breeze that caresses you all the time.

As this place is so calm and close to the lake you can also watch the birds that come to the shore and the lake. Plenty of marsh and spotted sandpipers were near the shore. I saw plenty of whistling ducks coming to feed in the lake in the evening. A flight of cotton teals was also seen in between. Egrets and pond herons were plenty. A

Vembanad Lake: A view from the balcony

huge purple heron was seen at the edge of the water. A few black kites and an Osprey were also seen at a distance in the horizon. The breezy and quiet sunset here is a trans experience that will linger in our mind for so long.

Purple heron at the water's edge

Once it was dark I could here the whistling of ducks coming in large flocks to the lake. The dark silhouette of night herons in flight was also interesting. I spend a lot of time at the lake shore just in front of the cottage experiencing the wonderful sounds, sights, smells and touch of mother nature in all her glory and subtlety. It was a really refreshing evening for me. After it was dark the calls and responses of jungle owlets and barn owls were coming form the adjacent palm groves. Paul my host informed that pond herons and little cormorants regularly nest and breed in a small heronry on the tree that is near to the cottage every year.

Sunrise Cruise in the Lake

This Lake Side Home Stay is near the MRF training centre slightly to the west of Pallychira between Kumarakam Jetty and Kavanatinkara Tourist Complex. They also provide simple Kumarakam delicacies including Karimeen and prawn. They could also arrange a country boat cruise in the lake at sunrise or sunset. If you are interested to watch birds, sunrise cruise is ideal; if you want to enjoy nature and simply unwind in the breeze set sail at sunset. Paul can be reached at: +91 9447569895 or +91 9249411167.

Blue tailed beeeater: A wetland bird

Zizek in Kerala: Kochi Life 2010

Ajay — Sat, 16 Jan 2010 07:09:19 +0000

Slavoj Zizek delivering "Whither Left?" at Kochi Life International Festival 2010

The renowned Slovenian intellectual Slavoj Zizek was in Kerala during 8 and 9 January 2010. He came to deliver the lecture “Whither Left?” at the Kochi Life 2010: Letters International Festival. The cultural festival also became a historic meeting place in Kerala of philosophers, thinkers, writers and activists from all over the world like Pof. Akeel Belgrami, Gail Omvedt, Gopal Guru, Javed Alam, Prabhat Patnaik, Tejaswini Niranjana, Usha Zacharias, Kumar Shahani, S Anand, Sashi Kumar…

Gopal Guru adding "There is more to secularism"

Open to dialogue: Gail Omvedt

C Ayyappan the leading Dalit short fiction writer in Malayalam inaugurated the event by stating that there is a Dalit writing stream in Kerala. The fete was an important platform for discussions and debates on class, caste and gender issues in the socio political contexts of India and the world at large.

Zizek as a listener

Gail Omvedt in conversation with Zizek and Alam

Zizek stressed the vitality of advancing the class struggle and the urgency of the anti capitalist revolution. According to him this is the time for action and we must do it now and here: “Do not look out for other people to do it for you, from other safely distant corners of the world.” The leading continental philosopher and psycho analyst was lashing it all out against capitalism and American imperialism. His dynamism and energy recharged the festival and captivated the audiences in which a large chunk of students were present from all over Kerala.

Eager to ask: Zizek asking questions

It was a meaningful and historic occasion for the literate people in Kerala who read Zizek and other thinkers from the west and are familiar with the global intellectual debates on capital and race. The first edition of Kochi Life was an enormous success in mass participation and active discussions. The organizers like Dilip Raj can now plan and work hard for the next edition focusing and developing on the key socio-cultural issues of our times and contexts.

“Lying Around” a poem by V R SANTHOSH

Ajay — Sun, 03 Jan 2010 16:42:12 +0000

While taking a nap alone
lying under a tree
No leaf will look at you
And no birds chirp

That is a snake
The Thoma who is lost in drinks
Or it could be even
The V R Santhosh himself

Otherwise a job seeking
Pauper of a Master of Arts
No home no folks
The Bengaly coolie

Thus doubts are multiplied
And reproduced
To be abandoned
On the slopes of outer space

If two persons lie around
together and take a nap under a tree
The leaves grow ears
And the birds start chirping

The nature turns out to be
A policeman with a curved mustache
The name and place would be asked
The debt of doubt would increase.

(Translated from Malayalam by Dr Ajay Sekher)

V R Santhosh is a leading young poet and translator in Malayalam. He can be reached at: +91 9495254362.

Buddhism in Kerala

Ajay — Sun, 03 Jan 2010 12:24:54 +0000

Buddha Sculpture at Mavelikara

The Buddha idols of Mavelikara and Karumadi in south Kerala are now well known all over the world. Today we see plenty of relics and ravages related to Buddhism and the Sramana tradition in Kerala scattered all over the state. Architectural and sculptural reminiscences are numerous apart from the vital linguistic and cultural imprints like the abundance of Pali (the ancient Buddhist Bahujan language) words in the present south Indian regional languages.

Karumady Kuttan: Half destroyed Buddha idol in Karumady near Ambalapuzha

The state is also known for the educational and health care achievements apart from its universal literacy. All these human development indicators are not just the product of 20th century evangelical Christian missionary activities and state welfare schemes but the lasting legacy of Buddhism, the democratic, egalitarian and inclusive way of living that shaped the cultural contours of Kerala from B C 3rd century to A D 13th century.

Nilamperur Pally temple: Converted to Hindu after Pallybana Perumal

Kerala is also known for its progressive left and democratic politics. This grass root level democracy and collective struggles of subaltern people are also a reminiscence of Buddhism that was the first missionary yet peaceful religion that welcomed women and outcastes to the mainstream community. The people or Bahujans who were defiant to Hindu Brahmanism after the destruction of Buddhism by Brahmanism were condemned as untouchable Chandals as outside the Brahmanic Hindu Chatur Varnayam after the devastation of Sramana tradition in Kerala. These Chandals or untouchable Buhujan masses were and still are the agents of Kerala social revolution or renaissance under the aegis of various radical social rebellions like the Narayana Guru movement, Ayyankali movement, Sahodara movement and various other progressive left and democratic processes in Kerala.

Buddhist Pagoda Shrine housing Karumady Kuttan, built by Dalai Lama

According to researchers, historians and thinkers like P C Alexander, P K Gopalakrishnan, Pavanan, Puthussery Ramachandran, Aju Narayanan etc. Buddhism was introduced in Kerala in the B C third century itself by the missionaries of emperor Asoka on their way down south to Sri Lanka which still is a Buddhist country. Jainism and Ajivaka philosophy also co-existed with Buddhism creating the great Sramana civilization of the South that has given birth to cultural classics like The Thirukural, Silapatikaram, Manimekhala and the whole canon of Sangham writing. The Buddhist, Jain and Ajivaka seers introduced the Brahmi script and the art of writing in South India. All the early inscriptions now available are written in Brahmi script in Tamil language. The ancient Tamilakam or Tamil country was a treasure house of Sramana heritage.

Almost all the current Savarna Hindu temples in Kerala now are modified Buddhist or Jain temples by coveted Brahmanism and its Padaja (Sudra or subservient Varna) forces. The brutal persecution of Buddhist monks/nuns and conversion of temples happened in seventh and eight centuries under the leadership of Sankara the furious advocate of Brahmanical propaganda and violence. He argued with other religious scholars, defeated them verbally and annihilated them and their religion forever. His brutal followers and henchmen also converted the seat of the defeated to that of Hindu Brahmanical temples with extended support from ruling classes.

He is also called Prachanna (pseudo) Buddha as he modified and disguised Buddha’s Sunyavada (rational theory) into the empire of the

A fake Buddha in Matanchery antique shop

Brahmanic self, the Advaita ‘theory’ that reiterated and enforced caste division and hierarchy with a peripheral and cunning shroud of unity that cheated the masses. Thirumulla Varam, Thottappally, Podiyil Mala, Sabarimala, Kodungallur, Thrissur, Kottakkal, Madappally and Bekal were world renowned Buddhist shrines of worship, learning, health care and nature conservation. In places like Mathilakam and Kiliroor there were even Buddhist and Jian universities and Research centres in Kerala in the early centuries of the first millennium that attracted intellectuals and students from all over the world.

Pally is still the most popular affix used along with place, plot and family names in Kerala, Tamil Nadu, Karnataka and Andhra. The Pali word Pally means a non Hindu/ Brahmanic place of worship. In the ancient times it denoted a Jain or Buddhist shrine. Buddhism guided culture and society in the south for more than a millennium. It was erased from Kerala through the barbaric and coveted Brahmanic invasion that happened from the fifth to eighth centuries under cruel and reckless royal patronage and usurpation with power.

Images and records of Buddhist persecution by the Brahmanic barbarians are still available in Kerala in the form of stone carved images, local subaltern orature and secret lore (Valath). The Hindu Brahmanic colonists burned the Pali canon and the sacred texts and knowledge systems of Buddhism in Kerala. These nomadic Aryans from the Vedic and Sanskritic clans of West and Central Asia introduced Sanskrit and Hindu religion in the South Indian Kingdoms. They found leverage in royal patronage through cunning usurpation and cheat. The legend of Onam and Maha Bali still articulates the historic deceit of Buddhist Bahujan culture by the Brahman dwarfs. Poets like Sahodaran Ayyappan has extensively written about the internal imperialism of Hindu Brahmanism in Kerala.

Vadayar Attuvela: A relic of Buddhist past

The Brahmans created the notorious sexual colonies among the Sudra women and used their male counterparts as foot soldiers who ensured the caste and Varna system, the practice of untoucahbility and pollution. The Sudras in return were given land and titles (as Nayar, Panikar, Thampy, Unni, Kaimal, Kurup, Menon etc.)with which they suppressed the local defiant untoucahable people having Buddhist lineage with bloody hands and weapons. These foot soldiers and menial hands of Brahmansim were absorbed to the Chatur Varnyam (fourfold Varna stratification of Brahmanical imagiNation comprising of Brahman, Kshatriya, Vaisya and Sudra) as the fourth and last Varna, the Sudra. The vast majority of people, the Dalit Bahujans were outside the cultural geography of Brahmanism as Chandals and Mlechas, as they are the former Buddhist and Jain population.

The Nayar dominance in Kerala history began in the middle ages with large scale Brahman settlements and militarization and still holds sway though they also want to be declared as a backward community now, as they still relish absolute power! According to state commission reports this power elites and historically advantageous group having less than 15 percent of Kerala’s population enjoy more than 32 percent share in government jobs. In higher education and universities it is more than 48 and in private owned print media and visual media it is almost 90 percent. Imagine the extent of Savarna Nayar hegemony in Kerala even today!

These henchmen of Brahmanism who cheated and killed their Buddhist, Ajivaka and Jain brethren to enforce Brahmanic caste and did the work of pimps by fetching their own women for the Brahmanic high priests with all the shameless pride of getting an elite alliance; are now hailed as the Samurais of Kerala by some fascist spokesmen of elitism who thrive in popular cinema and culture. This historical mediating middllemen are still the advocates of Gita classes, Veda and Vedantic obscurantism in Kerala and outside! They are the orchestrators of Hindu hegemonic discourses and the power heads of the Parivar forces all over the country allying with the Neo Kshatriya aspirants. They are also Hinduizing the Bahujan masses who are attracted to power and chauvinist social status! They need the numbers of Hinduized Bahujans for their pseudo majoritarian and fascist politics. It is an absurdity of history that some of them even today boast about their Brahmanical wedlock which was stopped just a few decades ago!

This Brahman – Sudra alliance or infamous Sambandham gave birth to the Manipravalam literature, the new Malayam-Tamil and later Malayalam and the Savarna elite culture of Kerala in the dark and dubious middle ages that Sanskritized and Hinduized Kerala elites and a lot of people. Even Syrian Christians boast about their Brahmanical connections more than 2000 (?!) years after conversion! Actually there were no Brahmins in the south in the A D first century! Then how could St. Thomas convert those absent Brahmans to Christianity? The coveted Brahmans came to Kerala only in the 4th or 5th century or later.

The power of Brahmanism and Hindu hegemonic discourse is that much tangible and an everyday reality in Kerala and India. This hidden Savarna elitism is the real culprit behind all the fascist pogroms and genocides in post Independent India. All the minority religions in Inida and Kerala like Jews, Muslisms and Christians still use the Pali word Pally to refer to their place of worship along with Jains and Buddhists in the south. Buddhism is making a second coming as an ethical philosophy and eco-spiritual alternative way of life all over the world and in India and Kerala in particular.

The historic affiliation to Buddhism in the philosophy and praxis of Narayana Guru the seer of Kerala modernity, his disciples and intellectuals like C V Kunhiraman, Asan, Sahodaran Ayyappan and now the new Ambedkarite Dalit movement in Kerala are significant. Dr Babasaheb Ambedkar’s illuminating subaltern hermeneutics of Buddhism in his masterpiece Bddha and his Dharma are also instrumental in the second rebellion of Buddhism against caste Brahmanism and social exclusion. Plenty of radical scholars and organic intellectuals in India and Kerala are now working on Buddhism like Gail Omvedt herself. It could be well assumed that Buddhism is emerging as the cultural and ethical alternative of the present and future all over the world and particularly in Kerala. The Bahujans in Kerala who lost their true Sramana legacy in the onslaught of Hindu Brahmanic internal imperialism are now recovering from the calamity of Brahmanism and its burden and looking forward to alternative paradigms and new ways of living.

Reference
Alexander, P C. Buddhism in Kerala.
Gopalakrishnan, P K. Keralthinte Samskarika Charithram. Tvm: Kerala Bhasha Institute, 2001.
Omvedt, Gail. Buddhism in India: Challenging Brahmanism and Caste New Delhi: Sage, 2007.
Pavanan. Baudhaswadheenam Keralathil. Tvm: Kerala Bhasha Institute, 2008.
Ambedkar, B R. Buddha and his Dhamma. Bombay: Govt. of Maharashtra, 1980.
Valath, V V K. Keralathile Sthala Charithrangal: Ernakulam Jilla. Thrissur: Kerala Sahitya Academy, 2001.
—, Thrissur Jilla,Thrissur: Kerala Sahitya Academy, 2001.
—, Thiruvananthapuram Jilla, Thrissur: Kerala Sahitya Academy, 2001.
Narayanan, Aju. Keralathile Buddhamatha Samskaram. Thrissur: Current/Tapasam, 2005.

Kallil: The Last Surviving Relic of Jainism in Central Kerala

Ajay — Sat, 26 Dec 2009 16:27:34 +0000

The huge granite structure that houses the shrine

Kallil is a rock-cut temple in central Kerala. It is located a few miles east of Perumbavur in Ernakulam district near Odakali. According to historians like V V K Valath and P K Gopalakrishnan who have done extensive field studies and archival research in the local history of Ernakulam district it was a Jain temple till the7th or 8th century. The early 20th century commentators have also pointed out the Jain ancestry of the Kallil Pisharady.

Thirthankara image on the mantle

In the ancient Tamilakam Adikal denoted a Jain sage as in Ilanko Adikal the legendary Jain saint (who was the brother of Cheran Chenguttuvan the Chera emperor), who composed The Silapathikaram the Tamil Sramana epic at (Thrikana)Mathilakam, a few miles west of Kallil near the coast and north of Kodungallur also known as the ancient port of Vanchi or Muziris. It can be reasonably assumed that this rock structure was converted into a Hindu temple after the onslaught of Brahmanism that wiped out Buddhist and Jain cultures from Kerala in the seventh, eighth and ninth centuries through coveted royal patronage and usurpation. The historians record that the idols of Mahavira, Parswanatha and Padmavathi Devi were found from the temple. We can still see the relief of the Jaina Thirthankara on the rock surface above the front opening.

Elephant Icon a Jain Mudra

The cave shrine is housed on top of a small hillock. the top of the shrine is covered naturally by a huge granite rock. There are also images of Naga deities in front of the shrine. Now the image of the Devi is worshiped as a Hindu godess. There is also a rock carving or shallow etching of an elephant image at the back of the shrine, which again is a confirmed Jain icon or Mudra.There are also ancient ponds and tanks that offer clear drinking water nearby. The mineral water springs also confirm the fact that this was an ancient Jain Thirtha or forest cave shrine with a mineral spring that attracted devotees from far and near. We have similar relics of Jain temples in Wayanad in Sulthan Bathery and Mananthavady. In Palghat a Jain Basti still survives and a few families too. the place is called Jaina Medu. But these regions are close to the Karnataka plateau and are exceptions in the cultural geography and history of Kerala.

Reference

Valath, V V K. Keralathile Sthala Nama Charithrangal: Ernakulam Jilla. Thrissur: Kerala Sahitya Academy, 1991.

Gopalakrishnan, P K. Keralathinte Samskarika Charithram. Trivandrum: Kerala Bhasha Institute, 2009.

—, Jainamatham Keralthil. Trivandrum: Prabhat, 1992.